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Thread: DIY Sump how to

  1. Default

    Where do work to have time to do this! Its awesome!!!!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Sacramento California
    Posts
    2

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    Excellent article. You really made it easy to read and informative. Well worded and full of good information . Thanks

    Tcarswell

  3. #18

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    well the sumps been running flawlessly now for 9 months, no problems whatsoever. has been doing a super job filtration wise, really extended the intervals of wich i have to service my filters, cannister included.

    maybe once every month i clean 1 filter, alternating between the sump and cann. in the sump i just rinse all the mechanical media in the sink and put it back in, its super fast.

    only thing id change is use a larger sump for my tank somehow, as i have to monitor the water level frequently during the summer when i leave the glass tops open. i dont know that i could find one cheap though that would have fit in the stand.

  4. #19

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    I had a problem on my 110 a while back, with the pump and overflow not matching up right. I found that my pump was adversely affected by throttling it though. (I'm cheap, and the CA pump I bought didn't like to be reduced in flow, bad for it apparantly)

    I used a bypass system in my sump to allow some of the flow to be reintroduced....see pic....



    Just my 2 cents on the flow issue. Have a different tank and sump now, but that system worked great for me on that Mbuna tank.

  5. #20

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    awesome writeup... now only if i was handy at these sort of things. I would really like to do this, but I imagine if I tried my kitchen would be under a foot of water. or i would cut one of my fingers off on the glass. I dont have any luck at all unless its bad luck. Very nice article though

  6. #21

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    GREAT GREAT READ>>>>
    Now i received a wet dry on my2 bow when i got it and its one of the larger e series models from Drs foster and its huge....and ive been wanting to make one for my 90g and my 46 gal bow at home.... what size sumps do you recommend for those two tanks...
    Thanks
    Tank 1 is a 90 Gal Mbuna Tank with 5 blue zebs, 4 red zebs, 9 yellow labs, 1 demasoni, 3 yellowtop mbamba and 3 auratus. Filtration is twin Aqueon 55 2 pad HOBS and a MAGNUM 350 for water polish. A maxijet 900, soon to add a fluval 404 and return the magnum to vacuum pump.

    Tank 2 46 gal Mbuna Bowfront with 14 juvi Taiwan Reef Saulosi with AC 119 and Aqueon 30.(to be replaced by a Fluval 104 soon.)maxijet 1200 for current

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Holland Patent, NY
    Posts
    8,891

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    Just a note... the containers of many of the cat litters that could be used for this DIY are no longer easy to find as many companies have reduced packaging to a plastic handled bag instead of the bucket.
    "Cichlids aren't aggressive, they are territorial. Aggression is a response to inadequate territory for their breeding and feeding needs."

    "A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!"

    My Tanks

  8. #23

    Default

    one question about the vac ball? i think thats what you called it to limit your pump flow as i have made my own overflow out of acrylic and your right its a very big headeache trying to match the overflow and intake levels.

  9. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by dehnger2u View Post
    I had a problem on my 110 a while back, with the pump and overflow not matching up right. I found that my pump was adversely affected by throttling it though. (I'm cheap, and the CA pump I bought didn't like to be reduced in flow, bad for it apparantly)

    I used a bypass system in my sump to allow some of the flow to be reintroduced....see pic....

    [IMG] http://www.outbacktanning.com/fish/sump_valve.jpg [/IMG]

    Just my 2 cents on the flow issue. Have a different tank and sump now, but that system worked great for me on that Mbuna tank.
    I like your solution. Seeing as I am in the process of design still, I will incorporate this into my set up.

    BTW: your image has a 404 error, I'd really like to see it.

    Thanks

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Holland Patent, NY
    Posts
    8,891

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    Just my version. Just a T and a tap basically... the more you open the valve the lower your pressure from the pump without pressurizing the pump impeller (increasing bearing wear) assuming the tubing is all equal a fully open valve would reduce flow by roughly half.... that is plenty of control for tuning.... if not, your pump is way too big. The return to the sump is done OVER the pump baffle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    "Cichlids aren't aggressive, they are territorial. Aggression is a response to inadequate territory for their breeding and feeding needs."

    "A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!"

    My Tanks

  11. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by RustyNut View Post
    Just my version. Just a T and a tap basically... the more you open the valve the lower your pressure from the pump without pressurizing the pump impeller (increasing bearing wear) assuming the tubing is all equal a fully open valve would reduce flow by roughly half.... that is plenty of control for tuning.... if not, your pump is way too big. The return to the sump is done OVER the pump baffle.
    That is basically what I pictured in my mind. I considered a couple mods though.

    1). A flexible line from the pump back to the sump that I could redirect to a 5 gallon bucket for water changes.

    2). A second valve on the tank side of the T that I could close to increase the flow to the sump return line to speed up water changes.

    Maybe not necessary, just a thought.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Holland Patent, NY
    Posts
    8,891

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    Yes that would work, however your water changes would be fairly small before the sump runs dry and the tank level drops below the overflow. You are only going to change about 60% of your sump volume. With a 30g sump you would be able to change roughly 20% of your tank volume. You might be okay. Depends on how heavily stocked you are and how often you change the water.
    Last edited by RustyNut; 02-21-2011 at 02:34 PM.
    "Cichlids aren't aggressive, they are territorial. Aggression is a response to inadequate territory for their breeding and feeding needs."

    "A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!"

    My Tanks

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