StructureGuy: I started in this
fish keeping hobby in 1977. I started pretty much like everyone else,
putting large fish like Oscars in small tanks and then watching them
try to turn around when they grew up. After a couple years, the owner
of a mom & pop LFS told me to knock it off and start paying more
attention to tank size and compatibility. So I figured I'd
concentrate on cramming small fish like mbuna in my 3 huge 30 gallon
tanks. The learning curve was longer before the Internet.
StructureGuy: After many years
of almost nothing but mbuna, I bought several bags of Victorians at a
club auction because the auctioneer claimed they were cool (um, maybe
1993?). I got hooked on Victorians, but no one could tell me much of
anything about them. So I combed the UseNet newsgroups for info. This
was the predecessor to forums, but unmoderated newsgroups didn't
allow posting images and flame wars were the norm.
StructureGuy: I initially
created my web site because I'm an engineer, and many of us suffer
from the irrational need to do stuff just to see if we can figure it
out. Roadrunner gave me 5 MB of free web space. So I borrowed the
company digicam and used the free web space to post fish pictures so
people could help me ID my Victorians. The website kinda grew into
more than I had intended. But my web site is not there so that I can
sell fish.
StructureGuy: I now have seven
main tanks (not counting 10 to 20 gallon breeder tanks.)
40 gallon long with ten Pundamilia
nyererei around 1 inch long growing out
46 bow front with 2M:4F Haplochromis
sp. 'Kyoga Flameback' (breeding) plus Ps. saulosi
55 gallon with 3M:9F Haplochromis
sp. 'Ruby Green' (Breeding)
55 gallon with 1M:2F Pundamilia
sp. Red Flank' (breeding) plus Astatotilapia calliptera
55 gallon with 1M:5F Paralabidochromis
chromogynos (refuses to breed) plus a few mbuna
75 gallon with twenty (too y (this was lost)
Chromedome: Is your website
still active?
Tchill93x:
www.african-cichlid.com - Kevin's website
StructureGuy: Other than
scientific papers, there are only two books on Victorian cichlids:
Lake Victoria Rock Cichlids by Ole Seehausen (Verduijn Cichlids 304 pages)
Lake Victoria Basin Cichlids by Mark Phillip Smith (Barrons, 96 pages)
StructureGuy: Here is what I do
with my Victorians. I usually buy 10 juveniles or maybe 20 fry of a
single species. I grow them out in a bare-bottom 10 to 20 gallon
tank. I aim to keep the two best looking males in roughly a 1M:3F
ratio, although that ratio really isn't nearly as important as it is
with mbuna. I either sell the extra males at a club auction or I
throw them into the 180 gallon tank just in case something happens to
my other males and I need them later.
StructureGuy: Many times a 2
species tank actually works better than a single specie tank for both
breeding and aggression management. So the second species is either
mbuna or a very different looking Victorian of a similar size and
temperament.
StructureGuy: Everyone thinks
that keeping Victorians is always a conservation thing, but to be
honest, my motivation is a bit less altruistic. If they are an
endangered species, then I'd like to have the opportunity to enjoy
them before they are gone. I raise them, observe them, write about
them, photograph them, breed them, but I rarely ever keep any fry for
myself. I distribute them (usually free) to anyone willing to come to
my house.
StructureGuy: On some rare
occasions, I do ship them to someone if I know that they are an
experienced hobbyist and especially if they are a Victorian
enthusiast and I have a chance for a payback trade in the future.
StructureGuy: The best place to
get Victorians is from a known source. Laif DeMason (of
Pseudotropheus demasoni fame) owns the fish farm Old World Exotic
Fish, Inc. south of
Miami. You can't order direct from them, but the non-chain LFS near
me can and does order from Old World. When they get some vics in I
often get an email. It always helps to get to know the LFS manager.
It might be possible for you to special order a colony of vics
through your LFS.
StructureGuy: Beware, this is
not cheap.
StructureGuy: Aquabid is a great
place to buy mis-identified and hybrid Victorians. Although, if you
know the person behind the screen name or if they post a picture of
the exact fish for sale, it can be an okay place to shop. The same
can be said of online fish breeders. They sell vics, but often don't
have any idea what they are selling so they make up a name (aka blue
neon, tangerine nyererei, etc).
StructureGuy: If I buy anything
online, then I have to see a picture of the fish I'm buying or it's
parents. I frequently see my pictures being used to sell fish so be
sure it's not an 'example' picture.
StructureGuy: Getting to know
breeders within a few hours drive can lead to a big improvement in
price, quality and selection since you can see what you are buying
and find out where they obtained their stock. By far the best
solution is to develop a network of hobbyists like yourself to work
out trades.
StructureGuy: Everyone claims
that they want to be sure to buy 'pure' Victorians, but they are
really just fooling themselves. Almost all of them are tank raised
these days and few of them can be traced back to the wild so how can
anyone be assured of purity? The only thing you have to go by is; 'do
they look right' and later; Do they produce consistent looking
offspring? At least to some extent almost every purchase is a risk.
If you try to get your Victorians identified on the Internet,
there's no guarantee of a consensus since there's a variety of
opinions as to what the 'pure' species should look like.
Chromedome: Not to mention the
naturally variable appearance of a given individual depending on
mood.
StructureGuy: As I said
previously, I like to buy a lot of juveniles at one time. It's pretty
risky trying to combine purchases from different sources to obtain a
larger colony of one species. Remember too, that Victoria is a huge
lake and there are a lot of location variants of many species.
StructureGuy: (Chromedome beat
me to it!)
StructureGuy: You can often find
Haplochromis sp. #44 'thick skin' (sold as Haplochromis
obliquidens) at the chain stores, even Walmart/Petsmart etc. This is
a beautiful fish that is extremely aggressive. It also wants to breed
with every female in sight, regardless of species. A friend had one
crossbreed with an Aulonocara. Of course, that why the species #44
and it's many hybrids are so plentiful in the hobby.
StructureGuy: It is a terrible
beginner fish, yet it is often the first Victorian that newbies buy.
RustyNut: But it's so pretty!
StructureGuy: You can also find
Astatotilapia latifasciata (sold as Zebra obliquidens) at the
chain stores. This is a beautiful fish that is reasonably
mild-mannered and has a nicely colored female as well. It is a near
perfect Victorian beginner fish.

MisanthropeKitty: Beautiful fish
Kevin.
StructureGuy: Other than those
two, you might have to look around a bit to find Paralabidochromis
sp. 'rock kribensis'

StructureGuy: Or Haplochromis
sp. 'Flameback' (Be aware most vics called Flameback are
mis-identified.)

StructureGuy: Or Haplochromis
sp 'Ruby Green'

StructureGuy: The availability
of Victorian species tends to come and go. So if you see one you like
and don't buy it, it might be 4 to 6 years before it makes the rounds
again. Right now: Haplochromis sp. 'Kyoga Flameback',
Pundamilia nyererei, Paralabidochromis chromogynos and
Haplochromis sp. 'Redfin Piebald' are available from many
breeders but I'll bet they become hard to find in a few years.
StructureGuy: To my mind the
best setup is a two species 55 to 75 gallon tank with a sand
substrate and lots of limestone rocks piled high for hiding. Put some
crushed coral in a canister filter for high PH buffering. Most
hobbyists recommend a temperature of 78º to 82º but I
believe that something around 72º to 76º is better. I had a
colony of 2M:4F Haplochromis sp. 'Dayglows' that bred for 3
years then stopped breeding for over a year. A heater broke and the
temperature went down to 62º and then I found that 3 out of the
4 females were holding.
StructureGuy: Most Victorians
will breed easily and often their first three years if they like your
setup. If you have a nice size colony and they aren't breeding, then
just change things. Move them to a different tank, or try changing
the cohabitants. I've had single species tanks where they didn't
breed, but when I added that second species they bred like crazy.
RustyNut: competition?
DoctorV: again, second species
that they won't hybridize, right?
StructureGuy: They usually breed
on top of flat rocks or they move the sand out of the way and breed
under a rock on the glass. They do the typical mouth brooder circle
thing. Female lays the egg, picks it up in her mouth, and tickles the
males egg spots to get the male to spray the sperm.
StructureGuy: Then hold the
eggs/fry for 18 to 21 days. Either remove the holding female to
another tank or strip her. Brood size depends upon the size and age
of the female. My Hap ruby greens give me around 25 to 30 but the
full grown As. latifasciata were spitting around 75.
StructureGuy: I don't know why a
two species tank often works out better.
StructureGuy: I think it has
something to do with the females not constantly running for their
lives.
StructureGuy: There are a few
piscivores (Lipochromis sp. 'Matumbi Hunter', Harpagochromis
sp 'Golden Duck') and pure algae grazers (Neochromis
rufocauldalis) in the hobby, but most Victorians that are
available are insectivores/omnivores that grow to only 3' to 6' long.
StructureGuy: A lot of people
buy Victorians without being able to visually identify them before
they buy. Then they post pictures in the ID section of the forum. But
many male vics are identifiable only when they are in full breeding
dress. It's often a pure guessing game on pictures of males in muted
coloration and not really worth the effort.
StructureGuy: The chances of
getting the ID correct on a pale colored Victorian is pretty slim.
Here is a prime example. ALL the fish on this page are male Hap.
Dayglows at various ages and moods.
http://african-cichlid.com/DayglowColors.htm The shear variety of
colors is so enormous that it would be impossible for most anyone to
positively identify this fish based upon many of the pictures on this
page.
StructureGuy: Those are two
males I had that lived around 7 or 8 years.
RustyNut: that is quite a
variety
Pam Chin: wow!
StructureGuy: Now you know why
I'm so wishy-washy about vic ID's on the forum some times.
Chromedome: I've avoided those
discussions religiously.
StructureGuy: Except for
Astatotilapia latifasciata and Paralabidochromis sp.
'rock kribensis' plus a few piebalds, the females are a dull
silver/gray or brown/yellow http://african-cichlid.com/Females.htm .
That's one reason not to mix them, since you may never be able to
separate them again.
StructureGuy: Keeping Victorians
is really very easy. A young decent size colony in a decent size tank
is all you need. Then find some way to curb the non-stop horniness of
the dominant male by preoccupying him with fish he doesn't want to
breed with (another male or another species)
RustyNut: hence 2M;3F
StructureGuy: Yeah. That's the
idea.
StructureGuy: or better 2M:6F.
But there is a benefit to that second male
StructureGuy: Except
Astatotilapia nubila that will kill everything eventually.
RustyNut: A. nubila will
kill its females?
StructureGuy: Yeah. Mine did. I
only had 1M:3F in a 40 and he harassed them to death in maybe 3
months
StructureGuy: Most vics are ON
AVERAGE less aggressive than mbuna but Hap #44 and nubila are
2 exceptions. At least they were for me.
StructureGuy: Some of the algae
grazers are pretty mean too (Neochromis rufocauldalis.)
DogWalker: Apart from A.
latifasciata, what are some of the most 'manageable' vics?
RustyNut: Paralabidochromis
sp. Rock Kribensis
StructureGuy: Paralabidochromis
sp. "Rock Kribensis"
RustyNut: lol
StructureGuy: The 2 finger typer
loses again
StructureGuy: But great minds
think alike.
RustyNut: Also Paralabidochromis
chromogynos
StructureGuy: Haplochromis
sp. "ruby green" are pretty mild even if they are all over
the place at 100 mph.
Tchill93x: You said you write
about the vics...besides the KB article, do you have more on your
website? Or do you write for associations?
StructureGuy: I write for the
local club newsletter mostly.
Chromedome: I had Hap. nubila
back in '82, the ID was done by Loiselle, but that was 25+ years ago.
Spawned once, then he trashed her. Did Rock Kribs in '93, and
Flamebacks in '99. Had "Blue Firefins" sit in a 55 and
laugh at me for two years.
tchill93x: What is local for
you?
StructureGuy: Or just put my
experiences on my web site.
StructureGuy: Local = Columbus,
Ohio
DogWalker: On the conservation
thing, I thought I read somewhere about a registry of some sort that
vic keepers could enlist with as an effort to keep track of captive
bred sources of vic stock. You heard anything of the sort? If so,
your impressions?
StructureGuy: I've never done
"Blue Firefins"
StructureGuy: Yea. The ACA has a
list going.
Jeff F.: Kevin, is there ANY way
of us trying to find "pure" Vics?
StructureGuy: The Haplochromis
Association in France has a list as well.
StructureGuy: My Mbipia mbipi
are pure since they are F1, I got from GAS last year.
StructureGuy: I don't think the
conservation thing at ACA is as well organized as the French effort.
StructureGuy: ACA has a list but
the French list species with fry available for distribution
goingfishing: Where would one
find Paralabidochromis sp. "rock kribensis",
Paralabidochromis chromogynos, Haplochromis sp.
"ruby green" and A. latifasciata? And have you had
any luck in mail ordering?
StructureGuy: Of course that
gets into the whole "what is conservation" topic.
DogWalker: Whether there is any
hope of these stocks ever serving to re-populate or restore extinct
species in the wild is perhaps a pipe-dream, but at least it would be
a way to conserve the species in a more or less authentic state for
hobbyists....
StructureGuy: I gave away around
200 ruby green fry last week to local hobbyists.
StructureGuy: A local small
chain has Rock Kribs available frequently around here.
Chromedome: There was a Vic
registration project at Michigan State University (not U of M) some
years ago. Don't know if it's still active, though.
goingfishing: My local pets
store only have mixed Africans and the sites I have been to have the
same.
StructureGuy: Paralabidochromis
sp. "rock kribensis", Paralabidochromis chromogynos,
Haplochromis sp. "ruby green" and A. latifasciata
were all available for sale out of rooms at the OCA Extravaganza this
past weekend.
Pam Chin: goingfishing, where do
you live?
goingfishing: Most of them being
cross breed.
goingfishing: Louisiana
Pam Chin: goingfishing, ahhhhh!
goingfishing: I guess i live in
the wrong state. Lol (Pam was “ahhhhing” the cross breed.)
StructureGuy: The annual ACA
convention usually has a good selection of lots of cichlids
StructureGuy: Is there a local
fish club near you in Louisiana?
goingfishing: Never heard of
any.
StructureGuy: I've tried hard to
generate local vic interest with only limited success, myself.
Chromedome: I try to attend
events like OCA and ACA because 1) if the person is wrong about what
fish they have, there are about 20 experts to correct them, and b)
you can actually see fish before buying, and they come from many
different parts of the country.
Jeff F.: My grow out tank of
Kribs is A1 and waiting to show! (I want pictures Jeff.)
goingfishing: If at anytime
anyone has vics for sale e-mail me
StructureGuy: Is that it, folks.
I'm a morning person on Eastern time so bed time is approaching.
Chromedome: Different regions
will have different species that are "cycling" through
their clubs.
tchill93x: Thanks so Much Kevin
- it was a great chat!
Chromedome: Very informative,
Kev.
DoctorV: Yes it was
goingfishing: Kevin hope to
catch it early next time.
Pam Chin: Thanks Kevin, I really
enjoyed it!
Jeff F.: Kevin, Thank you so
much
StructureGuy: See ya around the
forums and hopefully at the ACA convention in nearby Cincinnati next
summer.